Bayan-Ulgii is the center of Kazakh culture in Mongolia, and a starting place to see eagle hunters, Turkic Stone Men, petroglyphs, and the national parks. It is a far-off land of high mountains (the Mongol Altai – Tavan Bogd mountains with 4,373 m peak) torrents and glaciers, inhabited by Kazakh, a minority who has a different culture from the Mongols, herding yaks and goats and hunting with trained eagles. Most remote travel destination in Mongolia’s west region, offers countless adventures. A place itself also home of Kazakh ethnic tribes, famous for hunting with eagles. Also a destination for nature and wildlife watchers and photographers, a home to an ancient cultural and historical wonders including thousands of ancient rock carvings, listed on UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Western region of Mongolia has for much of its history been on the boundary between civilizations, between Chinese dominated Asian culture to the east and European cultures to the west divided by the Altai mountains and the Tibetan plateau to the south with only a narrow gap just south of what is today Mongolia. This location near the crossroad of civilization has left the landscape littered with history of many groups either originating in these mountain valleys or passing through on their way to conquest. Over the last 10,000 years, the Blue Turks, Scythians, Tuvans, Hun, Mongols, Uighurs, and Kazakhs all spread out from or through the region to take over more settled peoples. It wasn’t until the 1930s that all of the Altai mountains was firmly controlled with fixed borders by outside powers, and even then only after many years of bloody resistance. This legacy of independence can still be seen in the customs of the diverse population which can be broadly divided into Kazakhs, Tuvans, Khalkh Mongols, and Oirat Mongols (which can be divided into roughly 10 distinct tribes). These groups have adapted their cultures to handle the difficulties of living in this cold, dry, mountainous place. This region with the Altai Mountains in the west, Gobi Desert in the east and south, the Great Mongolian Lakes depression in the north and center, and forests, steppe, and deserts mixed throughout support some rare and spectacular wildlife. Large and endangered animals call the region home including snow leopards, the Govi Bear, Argali sheep, ibex, antelope, gazelle, falcons, golden eagles, wolves, foxes, and many more. Many more birds use the many lakes as rest stops on their annual migration between Siberia and Southeast Asia.
Bayan-Ulgii aimag is situated in the extreme West of Mongolia, on the West and North it borders with the Russian Federation and on the South-West with the People’s Republic of China.
The ethnic groups who call Bayan-Olgii home are the Kazakh, Khalkh. Durvud, Uriankhai and Tuva. Unlike the rest of Mongolia, which is dominated by the Khalkha Mongols. About 90% of Bayan-Ulgii’s population are Kazakh, almost all of them Muslim. The remaining 10% are mostly obscure minority groups.
Many people in the aimag speak Kazakh, so if you have spent time perfecting some conversational Mongolian, you may be devastated because many Kazakhs won’t be able to understand you. There is bound to be someone nearby, however, who speaks Mongolian and, possibly Russian, but certainly nothing else.
Altai Mountains forms border between China and the provinces of Bayan-Ölgii and Hovd, as well as covers most of both provinces, while the Tannu Ola Range forms the border between Russia and Uvs province, and the Khangai Mountains cover most of eastern Zavkhan. Collectively, these mountains completely surround Western Mongolia and create some of the most stunning scenery, including the 8 highest mountains in Mongolia and 12 of the top 14 highest. The highest peak, Tavan Bogd, is 14,350 ft (4,370 m) high and straddles the border with China and Russia.
The snow-capped Khuiten Uul mountain, 4374 m (14,201 ft), is the highest of the five peaks of Tavan Bogd Mountains (literally ‘Five Saints’) that gives the park its name. It covers an area of 630,000 ha and is home to three large freshwater lakes and 34 glaciers, plus several waterfalls. The largest, Potanin Glacier, covers 23 km. Tavan Bogd Mountains are considered sacred to local Kazakhs, Tuvans, and Mongolians. The park stretches from Russia along the Chinese border, following the Altai Mountain Range that divides China, Russia, Mongolia, and Kazakhstan, for over 200 km. Ancient tribes have left many artifacts, using the region for religious ceremonies. Today, tens of thousands of petroglyphs in the park are part of a World Heritage Site. In addition there are numerous Turkic Stone Men and stone burial mounds.
The busy season is from June to October when temperatures are warmer, snow has melted, and tour camps and shuttles are operating. The busiest time is August and September when the weather is best for mountain climbing. Also around the eagle festivals when tourists add a trip to the countryside. Though the park is still accessible year round with activities like snow skiing and eagle hunting during the cold winter months.
Rich flora of Bayan-Ulgii includes kobresia, sedge in the mountain plateau, gooseberry and ribes, also wild cherry, and sea bucks can be found along the banks of streams and rivers. 10 percent of the area is forest, consisting mainly of larches. There are wild sheep, ibex, and snow leopards in the Altai high mountain range and marmots, foxes inhabit the lower slopes of mountains. There are bears, lynxes, and squirrels in the forests.
Climate is cooler than other areas, because 70 percent of total area is more than 2000-3000 m above sea level and 30 percent is more than 3000 m above sea level. Mongolian Altai Range has a continental climate with temperate summers and cold winters: the snow comes early and melts late. In summer, the average temperature ranges between 18 to 23 degrees plus, and in winter, the average temperature goes down between 32 to 37 degrees below zero. Average precipitation is 400-500 mm per year.
Rivers and Lakes of Western Mongolia collectively form what is known as the Great Lakes Depression, a self-contained watershed that drains into several large saltwater and freshwater lakes mostly in Hovd and Uvs provinces. The largest lake is the saline Uvs Lake near Ulaangom. Other large lakes are the Khyargas Lake also in Uvs, and the interconnected Dorgon, Khargas, Khar, and Airag lakes just east of Hovd which form the Khar Us Nuur National Park. These lakes are supplied by the Khovd River, Zavkhan Gol, and Tesiin Gol. The Khovd River flows from Tavan Bogd Mountain in the Altai Mountains to Khar-Us Lake, the Zavkhan Gol flows from the Khangai Mountains to the Khyargas Lake, while the Tesiin Gol flows from the Tannu Ola Mountains to Uvs Lake. There are several waterfalls and glaciers near the headwaters of each of the rivers and various tributaries. These rivers and lakes support numerous species of birds and several species of fish. The lakes are a major stopping place for many endangered migratory birds.
Petroglyphs and cave drawings dating back some 15,000 years are found in abundance all over the Altai mountain region. With the region serving as a crossroads of many ancient nomadic civilizations, the images found on rocks and inside caves trace the evolution of prehistoric man as he develops tools, learns to use horses, domesticated livestock, and becomes fierce steppe warriors. Especially good collections of petroglyphs (meaning ‘etched in stone’) are inside Altai Tavan Bogd National Park and just outside of Hovd. These petroglyphs start with ancient Turkic tribes hunting mammoths, elephants, and deer with spears to drawings of the horse-bound raiders of the Mongol Empire several thousand years later. In between are images of the Scythians, Huns, Tuvans, and Uighurs, which spread out from these mountain passes, before occupying parts of Europe, the Middle east, India, and China.
Standing Stones made by ancient Turks, Tuvans, and possibly other groups mark the landscape of mountain valleys across western Mongolia. The most prevalent form of stone monolith is the Turkic Stone Men, which range in size from 2 ft (0.61 m) to over 6 ft (1.8 m) in height and weighing several hundred pounds with face, hands, tools, and other features carved into the rock. The Flying Deer Stones, where the deer appear to be flying, are believed to be made by reindeer-herding Tuvan tribes, and are highly regarded by archeologists. These stones and other blank monoliths usually are part of massive stone complexes that served as either burial mounds or shamanistic temples. An excavation at one burial mound in Bayan-Olgii turned up the complete mummified remains of a Scythian warrior and horse in full battle armor in 2006. All together, there are over 1,000 standing stones, including at least 50 deer stones in the Altai range of western Mongolia.
The people living inside the park are one of the main draws. Kazakhs and Tuvan nomadic herders live inside the park and visiting them is part of most tours. The Kazakhs are the most numerous and the ones that do eagle hunting. They are known for their colorful large ger with rich embroidered wall hangings and their warm hospitality. Tuvans occupy the Tsagaan Gol valley and have different clothes, food, and language than Mongols. Tuvan men sing deep eerie long-songs using throat-singing, though very few Tuvans in this isolated pocket have mastered the art. Kazakhs live around the lake, as well as Tsagaan Salaa and Takhiltyn Havtsal (and most of the rest of the park). Those living inside the park have retained their traditional culture to a greater degree than probably any Kazakh in Central Asia. They have preserved their arts and music, and have practiced the ancient sport of eagle hunting continuously throughout the Soviet era when it was suppressed elsewhere. Many inside the park have never lived anywhere else and can’t even speak Mongolian, the national language.
Though the local nomadic tribes didn’t start building permanent Historic Structures in great quantities until very recently, several Buddhist monasteries and Manchu forts date back a few hundred years. The mud brick walls on Manchu forts still stand outside of Hovd and Uliastai, which served as provincial capitals of western parts of Outer Mongolia up until the Revolution of 1911, and among the only settlements in Mongolia to develop before the 1930s. These two cities also have ruins of Buddhist temples and other historical structures. Most other buildings in the region have been built by the communist government or under democratic rule including many mosques and Buddhist temples and monasteries to replace those destroyed in the anti-religious purges of the 1930s.
Visiting nomadic families inside the park is an obligatory part of any visit to the park and is possible both summer and winter. Even if you have visited families elsewhere in Mongolia, it is worth seeing Kazakh and Tuvan families. You can stop by for milky tea or a meal while on a trek, or stay the night. Some of the Kazakhs are eagle hunters, and you can ask to hold the eagles or watch their training during the summer months. Or you can watch the daily routine of a real nomad of herding animals, milking goats and horses, gathering dung, cooking, and cleaning. Depending on the time of year, you get to see them move camp (which takes a day to break, move, and set up camp). The generous hospitality of locals has long been a draw to the park, though you should be prepared to give gifts of money or household goods. They are hosting tourists throughout the summer so they can’t be too generous. Kazakhs and Tuvans speak languages that most Mongol tour guides don’t understand.
Eagle Festivals in Bayan-Ölgii are the most popular tourist events in the region. The main Golden Eagle Festival in Ölgii in early October features as many as 70 golden eagles and their Kazakh masters in addition to many other entertaining activities like Kokpar (a form of tug-of-war over a goat skin while on horseback), and Kyz Kuar (a horse race between a man and woman, where the man tries to hold the reins of the woman’s horse while she whips him). Another smaller eagle festival is just outside Ölgii on the last weekend in September.
Nauryz festival on March 22nd is the traditional new year’s celebration of Kazakhs living in Hovd and Bayan-Ölgii. Usually involves visiting friends and family over multiple days to eat Nauryz Kozhe soup, meats, and sweets. In Ölgii there is a parade, horse races, and festival on the 22nd.
Tolbo Lake (Tolbo Nuur) is about 50 km south of Ulgii, on the main road between Ulgii and Khovd city, so it’s an easy day trip or stopover. The saltwater lake is high (2080m), expansive and eerie, but a bit disappointing because the shoreline is treeless. There are a few gers around the lake, and the water is clean enough for swimming if you don’t mind icy temperatures.